Driving up out of the Galilee bowl up onto the Jezreel Valley we arrived at Beth Shan, the most extensive archeological site (along with Caesarea) in Israel. This was also the only one of the ten Gentile cities of the Decapolis during the time of Jesus. The large Tel (human made hill) at the end of the ancient city was the command post for many empires, from Egyptian to Assyrian, to Babylonian. It was here that the Philistines decapitated King Saul and hung his body (and his sons) on the city wall (I Samuel 31). Perhaps because it is in the Gentile Decapolis and Jews actively avoided contact, that no mention is made in the NT of this city, even though it is on a main route north and south.
The Romans really developed this city in a big way during the decades after Jesus. An acoustically superb open air theatre is beautifully preserved, restored, and used for concerts today. The main strata (street) has a sophisticated sewer drainage system, a fancy bath house, and what we had fun with - the public toilets, with channels for flowing water beneath all the stone seats – privacy, no – but efficiency, yes! There is a wooden tree/cross on the top of the Tel, over on the left side, very visible. Aladin told us that it was used for a production of ‘Jesus Christ, Superstar’, and left there for all to see.
Our next stop was to Megiddo, at the crossroads of the fertile and impressive Jezreel Valley. During the 30 minute drive Aladdin pointed out Mount Gilboa (where King Saul lost the battle and fell onto his sword). This set of highlands begins the territory called ‘Samaria’ and extends southwards past ancient Bethel (now Ramallah in the West Bank). Right up along the highway we saw a prison – Shata – where Israel holds Palestinian political prisoners. Megiddo is a Tel that rises up from 17 layers of cities over the millenniums because it over looks and protects the main routes that all armies and empires would need to have traveled and controlled. Recent digs have exposed an ancient Canaanite era large, raised, round stone altar, used for child and human sacrifice in heathen worship. Angela wondered if the pagan altar in the recent movie ‘The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe’ used this as their model – it looks just the same with the steps in the front as well.
This is the site known to Christians as Armageddon (Hebrew for Mountain of Megiddo), and referred to in Revelations 16:16. Many believe this to be the site for the final show-down battle between the forces of Satan and this world vs. God, so many Christians flock to this site. My take is that the final show-down was at Calvary where God in Christ defeated death and the forces of Satan once for all; everything afterwards is ‘mop-up’. The land of Israel was used by God for the lead-up to this fullness of time in Jesus Christ, and through Jesus we now live in the Kingdom of the heart, liberated from that land. In fact, this is the message of Christianity that can be the new word and Good News to these tired battles over the centuries and millenniums over this ‘promised land’. Having said this, I do believe that it is in the interests of USA and the world to have a democratic and pro-western country in the Middle East. However, I do not agree with many Christian teachings that say we must have the nation of Israel in order for the Lord to return. Jesus said clearly that we will not know the time or the place of the end times and return, so be alert, awake, and fruitful, trusting in the victory already won.
We then ate lunch at a buffet place that thrives on bus tour people. It served excellent food but was so inefficiently laid out that even I wanted to re-organize it for them! Then off we went back to the Galilee region and up to see the grand vista on top of Mt. Arbel. This is another of the add-ons to the original schedule that I asked our guide to help us see, if possible. This high point is at the NW corner of the Sea of Galilee and has sheer cliffs 1,500 feet down on the north. Going through this northern side is the Valley of the Doves, and this is where the winds come off the Mediterranean Sea, across the upper Jezreel Valley, and swooping down onto the lake, causing the sudden waves and storms referred to in the Gospels.
At the base of the cliff is the ancient fishing town of Magdala, where Jesus healed Mary of seven demons, and hence her devotion to Jesus. From up here the whole north and east part of the lake is visible as well as the Golan Heights across the way. Because of the seasonal air mist, we were not able to see as clearly as in the winter – however, it was still a grand overview. It was here we overheard Candy say, “I could live here!”. This is where Jesus walked – through the Valley of the Doves to Nazareth, some 8 miles away; back and forth from Magdala to Capernaum; riding in the boats out on the water before us; this is where Jesus actualized the Kingdom of God!
Our final stop of the day was down the mount and along the northern shore to the traditional site of the Feeding of the Five Thousand at Tabgha. The church on this site is called the Church of the Multiplication of Bread. This is beautiful in its simplicity of lines. The present structure is only within 100 years, but it was built upon an ancient sanctuary site of which the entire floor is mosaic tile, and it is striking. Below the Altar is the famous mosaic of a basket with two fishes and five loaves of bread. Many groups, including us, sang a hymn in this uplifting and stereophonic setting. The church’s gift shop was a hit to Janey and Patty especially.
We returned to Tiberius, had a short team meeting to set our plans for our tour guide and bus driver tips, and then began packing our suitcases for tomorrow, our big and final day in Israel.
Randy
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